#Embroidery patterns free easy download#

I’m quite sure this is not the proper way and is frowned upon by embroidery experts but it is quick and easy and it works perfectly well for the standard of embroidery I do.Ĭut a length of your embroidery thread about 60cm (24”) long. Let’s start with an easy way to start your embroidery without a knot. I’m in the process of re doing the photos for this tutorial so they currently switch part way through, bear with me, it’s a work in progress! Starting your embroidery with no knot If you fabric is thicker you might need to transfer the design using iron on transfer paper, carbon paper or a heat transfer pencil. If the fabric is thin enough to be see through then print the design out on the computer, hold it up to a window or light box and then lay the fabric on top and trace it with an erasable pen (see above, the list of what you need) How you do this will depend on the fabric you are using. The way I do it might not be the ‘proper’ way! Transferring the design to the fabric I have no special training, I don’t have a City & Guilds Embroidery qualification, I just like to add embroidery to things now and again and I’m going to share how I do it. You can get some beautiful embroidery scissors but you can cut your thread with any scissors so maybe add cute scissors to your Birthday present list!īefore we start stitching I want to add a quick disclaimer here, I’m not an embroidery expert. It will keep the fabric stretched taut and prevent the finished embroidery from puckering. If it gets super cold the lines can reappear!Īn embroidery hoop: If you are stitching on a substantial fabric like felt then you probably don’t need an embroidery hoop but it’s recommended for all floppy fabrics. The only time it’s not suitable is if you put your embroidery somewhere where the temperature regularly goes below minus 10 degrees C. To remove it you use heat, so you iron your fabric and it’s gone. The line is much finer which makes it easier to stitch more neatly. If you don’t stitch quick enough you can find that you have to draw your design several times!! UPDATE: I used a water erasable pen for these tutorial photos but more recently I’ve started using a Frixion pen for marking fabric. I’d recommend water erasable generally as the air ones disappear after a while with exposure to the air. You can also get special pens for marking fabric, water erasable and air erasable. Something to mark the design onto the fabric: You can use a pencil or a heat erasable pen. The large eye is so you can get the thread through and the point is so you can pierce the fabric easily.

Go for toning colours like I have here or go for contrasts, brights or pastels whatever takes your fancy.Īn embroidery needle : This is a sharp needle with a large flat eye. I was using up some little left over bits so I didn’t keep track of the colours or their codes I’m afraid. You can work this design in any colours that you like. I always used DMC threads but there are lots of different brands to choose from. You have more control as you can separate the strands and vary how thick the thread is. But you can embroider on pretty much any fabric so I’d say use what you have and don’t let the lack of perfect fabric put you off!Įmbroidery thread: I think you are probably best starting with a few skeins of stranded embroidery thread.

If it’s not too thick then you’ll find transferring the design on to the fabric easier too. I cut up some old curtain lining for mine.

#Embroidery patterns free easy download#

You can download it from here to print.įabric: You want something plain and with a reasonably tight weave. You can copy this, switch it up to make it your own, do what you like with it! I did try to do a slightly more high tech version of this design but in the end paper and my coloured pens seemed the easiest way to create it for you.